by Wilfred Okiche

With annual fashion shows that rival the globe’s best, designers who constantly raise the stakes on the international scene and supermodels with careers to rival New York’s finest, it clear that Nigeria’s fashion industry is in on the cusp of its golden age. The industry is not all flash and show, however – what everyone sees is just the tip of the iceberg. Underneath the surface lie movers and shakers who, beyond the glitz and glam, have a firm hold on the keys to a booming industry. We combed Nigeria’s fashion scene to unravel these 10 players under 40.

Agbani Darego

Who can forget that moment in 2002 when Agbani Darego made the entire continent stand still as she was announced winner of the Miss World beauty pageant? The first African to clinch the honor, Darego went on to build a successful career as a model, becoming one of the country’s most visible exports. She has modelled for globally revered brands such as Christian Dior Beauty, Avon, Target and Macy’s and enjoys brand endorsements back home from Arik Air and Gentle Touch. She recently launched her denim clothing line AD, and her red carpet appearances are like mini fashion shows in themselves.

Adebayo Oke-Lawal

Everyone here is on the latter end of 30, and then Bayo jumps right in! The young, soft-spoken designer represents a formidable power-bloc that is quietly but steadily springing up and raring to take over; one that includes young talents such as stylist Onyinye Fafi-Obi, and bloggers Terrence Sambo and Noble Ezeala. Oke-Lawal’s Orange Culture label enjoyed a boost in profile when he was shortlisted among the 30 semi-finalists for the Louis Vuitton Moet Henessy Young Fashion Designer Prize early in 2014. He spent a good part of his time as a finalist in Paris rubbing shoulders with globally revered fashion personalities like the iconic Anna Wintour, Kanye West and Karl Lagerfield. He also serves as fashion editor of the periodic WOW! Magazine.

Emmy Collins

Armed with only a blogspot address and internet access, Collins may well be the most powerful man on the fashion stage. Though he is based and trained and London, Collins’ eye is fixed firmly on the Lagos social scene. He is never afraid to put celebrities in check with hisdelicious reviews of their style (mis)adventures. On his blog, Diary by Emmy, he has taken on the likes of Anne Idibia, Tiwa Savage, and Linda Ikeji, emerging unscathed. According to Collins, his designs do not come cheap and favour an upscale market which thrives on discretion. That perhaps explains its exclusivity.

Folake Folarin-Coker

Folarin-Coker is the founder of Tiffany Amber, one of Nigeria’s most prestigious, far-reaching and long-staying design labels. Recently profiled by Forbes as one of the 20 Power Women in Africa, Folarin-Coker’s Tiffany Amber was the first African-based label to showcase at the New York Fashion Week twice. Founded in 1998, Tiffany Amber fetched Folarin-Coker the coveted Designer of the Year award at the 2009 African Fashion International festival in Johannesburg.

Funke Babs-Kufeji

Babs-Kufeji works as the deputy editor of This Day Style, the country’s leading newspaper glossy, where she contributes features and interviews with some of the biggest names in the country. Everyone and their mother wishes to appear on the pages of the Sunday glossy, and it is the job of Babs-Kufeji and her team to separate the trulystylish from the faux every week, and present the former to editor Ruth Osime for her seal of approval. In many circles, a nod from This Day Style is theultimate fashion status symbol and Babs-Kufeji is the one who dishes out all the cool points.

Isoken Ogiemwonyi and Wonu Odunsi

Ogiemwonyi, with her long time partner, Wonu Odunsi, is the Co-CEO of L’Espace, a multi-brand concept store established in 2011 which spans fashion and lifestyle services. L’Espace, known to launch and support the careers of many upcoming designers, became the first major store in Nigeria to stock solelyAfrican/African-owned designs. Ogiemwonyi’s monthly mobile market Le Petit Marché, a favourite of Lagos’ sartorial elite, has also incubated the designs of such talents as Ejiro Amos Tafiri, Akpos Okudu and Grey. Isoken Ogiemwonyi is also the CEO and Creative Director of Obsidian

Jennifer Olize

Daughter of veteran broadcaster Frank Olize, Jennifer definitely knows how to put on a show. She stepped out on her own big time in 2012 with her soar away revue, Music Meets Runway, which now holds annually and closes the fashion year by combining high profile music performances with the latest in couture. Music Meets Runway has been able to attract sponsorship from blue chip companies and patronage from some of the music industry’s biggest stars. Fashion insiders are already preparing for this year’s event.

Lisa Folawiyo

Actress Thandie Newton swears she is a fan of the designs of Lisa Folawiyo, founder and creative director of Jewel by Lisa, who started her high-flying label at home after the birth of her daughter. In a short span, JBL became a design pioneer by using exquisitelyembellished high grade local Ankara fabric. In the 8 years since the label launched, the world has definitely taken notice of Folawiyo’s luxury brand, as it has been featured in prestigious publications like The New York Times, Vogue, BBC, Harpers Bazaar and Ebony. Her intricately crafted pieces have also been worn by celebrities like Beyonce, Kelis and Kendall Jenner.

Oluchi Orlandi

Having conquered cat walks from New York to Paris and participated in campaigns for Sports Illustrated and Victoria Secret, this supermodel recently showed the world her business side. Frustrated about sitting around, waiting to host a planned local franchise of Tyra Banks long-running America’s Next Top Model, Orlandi grabbed the reins for herself and secured the rights to produce Africa’s Next Top Model. The show is set to go for another spin after the successful debut of its first season on Africa Magic, and even though she has not gotten on famously with the Nigerian press, Mrs Orlandi remains the boss.

Omoyemi Akerele

Perhaps the most powerful woman in fashion, Akerele held the 3rd season of her Lagos Fashion and Design Week at the glitzy Eko Hotel and Suites, with Guaranty Trust Bank as headline sponsor. The one-week fashion festival is fast becoming the most important style event of the year. Especially with the demise of Arise Magazine Fashion Week, it is in the interest of the fashion industry that Akerele’s show continues and succeeds. When she is not thinking of the next big fashion wave, Akerele’s work can be seen on her blog, StyleHouse Files.